Heatwave bumps

Heatwave bumps

We have a couple of days where temperarures are climbing up way past 30C (~90F), water is still freezing though, around 14C.

There were only sme small chin-high bumps today, but I took the board out anyways. My intention was to at least paddle around a little bit, build up more shoulder strength. I was exhausted pretty quickly the last time I went out 2 weeks ago or so.

I was watching another surfer on a longboard out there, playing around on those small bumps. After a while I decided to copy what I saw: not standing up after the popup, but staying low with bent knees, almost sitting on the board. Keeping a low center of gravity allowed me to rider a little bit longer. Standing up and keeping balance on small and slow waves is hard. Got a few fun rides in using this little trick.

Got a few more like this one in, before I decided to record the session.