Danielle and Earl

It's a big surf weekend on the East coast. Hurricanes Danielle and Earl are working in tandem somewhere out in the Atlantic, and sending decent swells our way. There was practically no wind and waves amounting up to about 1.5 Meters I would say, chest high or so.

I got out to Nahant Beach 3 times this weekend. Out of the ~50 waves I tried, I think I managed to catch 3 decent ones. At least I remember 3 decent rides, where I had the rare feeling that I'm actually surfing, with a controlled paddle into the wave, a drop-in that didn't end in complete chaos and an enjoyable ride all the way to the beach, including walking up and down the board a little. Getting more comfortable there too, a very exciting development!

Paddling out to the line-up was super hard. Most of the times I felt like I was making no progress at all, getting washed back in with every second wave. After 90 Minutes I was totally exhausted and needed to call it  a day. I was just getting knocked off my board and tumbled around by those for my level rather large waves.

I tried standing up on one larger wave all the way out in the line up. No luck, got wiped off the board right away. I was also trying an angled drop-in, that might have been a mistake. Usually I'm dropping in straight, and not doing angled drop-ins. But it felt like the right thing to do, instead of going straight down the face of the wave and potentially nose dive at high speed. Need to do a little bit of research here and ask for advice.

Anyways, it was all totally worth it and great fun to be out in the water!