Beautiful Nahant Fall Day

It was such a gorgeous Saturday at Nahant Beach, warm temps and practically no wind. I'm getting closer to actually surfing. Now I'm hanging out at the "real" take-off spots, and standing up on as much as other beginners.

I'm still struggling with turning the big board. On one instance I stood up on a clean unbroken wave, and realized I have now about 3 seconds to adjust it to the direction I should be going. Panic settled in, I turned the board by a few degrees, then rhode it pretty much straight as long as I could. Tiny steps, we'll get there.

There were few elderly surfers out there, all grey, who were an inspiration. I was watching one older man killing it on waves no one else got. He just had the timing right, knew exactly when and how strong to paddle into it, and rhode waves that were dying on everybody else. That's where I want to be eventually.