Surf Summer Start
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Don, a tropical system, brought some swell to the east coast and made it all the way up here. It was a great quick morning session. I didn't have much time, maybe an hour max, but it was so worth it!
The sets were super clean, practically no wind, and of a managable 3ft height. I paddled into 6 waves and caught all of them. No nosedives, no weird slip outs, couldn't believe it, especially since I haven't been surfing since last November.
The one thing I will say is that my shoulders almost fell off. There's no stamina whatsoever built up for paddling around, yet. About time to change that!
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