4ft

It was a warm early fall day. I had planned to get out to the beach first thing in the morning, but the forecast changed slightly overnight, and was updated with winds dying down towards the end of the day.

I peeked through the surf-cam in the morning, and it did looked pretty choppy indeed. Waiting for the afternoon was the right call.

I had a good session, not great, but it was solid. Still little bit choppy, with the occasional wind gust.

The one memorable thing I took away from today was, that I'm not scared of 4ft waves any longer. We had sets of what I would say was 4ft rolling through, a good stomach high wave. Last year I had the greatest respect for that size. Today, even though I wiped out a couple of times, I had much more control paddling into, and catching at least one of those.

Once I had adjusted my position on my board, move back, I stopped nose diving. That's the whole magic I guess. On smaller waves I need to be more in the center to be able to catch it, on larger ones, I can sit back and drop in standing more towards the tail of the board.

It was good, I liked that feeling! 🌊