Second day of Josephine’s leftover swell. Much smaller than yesterday, in the shin to thigh high range. That’s usually a good range for Nahant and longboards, with long easy rides. The problem this afternoon was the onshore wind that turned the small waves into weaklings. There were a few nuggets in there, and I got a few, but it wasn’t nearly as much fun as it could’ve been without that breeze.
I also opted for the 3/2mm wetsuit, no gloves, no hood. And it was definitely on the chillier side.
A new thing I tried: no leash. Lately I had been battling with it a little. Getting wrapped around my legs, always checking where it is before paddling into a wave. So I thought, on these small bumps, on a beach break, no rocks, what’s the worst that can happen? Well, let me tell you: first ride, popped up, lost balance and decided to just fall back and shoot the board out in front. With a leash, the board would have been caught. Without one, which I forgot about in the moment and remembered as I was falling back, the board just goes, and I panic and swim after it.
But it kind of feels nice without a leash. Less distraction. I got better at dismounting and keeping the board around me eventually. Will definitely try to go leashless except on larger days.
Another nice progression today was when I watched a guy surf by me. Very smooth style: feet close together, knees bent, upper body upright and standing almost in the middle of the board. He wiggled the board through the wave almost exclusively with weight shifting from that position. Looked very cool! Needed to copy it instantly, and I think I got close. At least I’m inspired. It was a nice style to watch go by for sure.
