Surfing Larry!

Best day ever!!

Since I started surfing, which was about 12 months ago, today we had by far the best conditions I've ever seen, it was amazing!!

I went out last night to look at the waves at the peak of Hurricane Larry's swell. They were in the 1,5 - 2m range. Way too big for my skills, but still fun to watch what was going on. It was pretty windy and it looked rough out there.

I waited until this morning, when the swell was fading out a little bit, and it was perfect! No wind, well spaced sets with a range of max 1m height, just perfect. I had so much fun and stayed about 2 1/2 hours in the water, until my arms practically fell off.

Caught about 40 waves or so, or at least attempted to catch them. With a handful rides I was actually pretty happy. It took me an hour until I decided to leave the smallish white water wash waves, and paddle out a little bit further to catch them earlier. The last ride felt pretty good. I think I cought a 1m wave in a pretty good spot, right before it broke. The board dipped down, I gave it one more push and popped up. At least that's what it felt like, a pretty last ride in.

Got a few tips from a friend I ran into about paddling into a wave, which helped a lot. My biggest problems are reading waves and getting the timing right, and then obviously paddling stamina. Oh boy, that was an upper body workout out there!