There was a Surfline alert the evening before, notifying me that conditions would be decent the next morning it said. Not great, but decent, and rideable. So, all excited, I got up early, went out, and quickly realized, at 6:30 looking out on the beach, that I should’ve checked the webcam before, instead of blindly trusting the forecast from the previous night. Conditionas weren’t decent at all, mostly flat and mushy, depending how the wind turned.
I went back and forth for an hour, watching another 3 poor souls in the water do nothing, before deciding to just get wet. Whatever, I’m out here already, just do it and try a little bit.
Whenever I caught one of these super small rides, I wasn’t sure that I was able to stand up because my longboard captured the energy of the wave, or because I was paddling so hard that I could’ve stood up in a flat pond.
Anyway, it was better than not getting wet. And after getting 3 smallish rides, it reminded me: I should get out more often and just try. Don’t wait for the perfect conditions. Every now and then you’ll also find a decent ride and bad conditions.
So there it is, my fall resolution: get out to the beach more often the moment there’s the chance for a small set to be caught.




