14 waves.
I caught a total of 14 waves this afternoon.
And all of them were keepers. Some were amazing, none were bad enough to delete from my Surfline session. All of them left some small memory.
What an amazing random Monday afternoon it’s been.
Thigh-high bumps rolling into Nahant, propped up by a light offshore breeze, warm autumn sun shining in your face.
Glorious!
The amount of endorphins set free in the 90 minutes before sunset was out of this world.
Every time I’m out there now, I feel like I’m getting more in control of what I’m actually doing. On the few really good rides today I started to approach the nose, as in noseriding. Getting the board close to the lip, sticking in the rail, trimming down the wave, and then slowly walking forward. Not gracefully by any means, but sensing some progress.
What is really interesting, coming from snowboarding and skateboarding, is how you turn on a longboard. On snow or on a skateboard it’s all about shifting your weight. Forward, backward, left, right, this is how you turn. On a longboard you step around in addition to shifting your weight. My turns are slow, meaning I have a long response time. I still need to think about where to step to initiate the turn I want. That lag is costing me valuable speed, but I guess I just need to build up these reflexes and muscle memory over time.
