It was a stressful Sunday. Our old car wasn’t at its best, wanted a jump start and was idling really low. The surf forecast looked OK for the morning: 2ft with increasing offshore winds. High tide first, then outgoing. Heavy winds were forecast for low tide.
Anyway, I got a Zipcar, a large enough one to fit my longboard. Dropped our car off at the mechanic, then drove to the beach and arrived at 9am. Two hours after high tide.
Patience was the name of the game. When I got in the water it was basically sitting around for about 15 minutes.
But then it hit: a nice left, cleanly rolling in. The offshore breeze was strong enough to prop it up nicely for me. That was the first one, and a second one right after. Then nothing for a long while until a similar set hit.
It was SO good!
I got some nice long rides in, both left and right. First time I felt completely in control, steering the board back up to the lip of the wave and turning it down again. Enough time to play around and put in a rail trim up and down the wave until it closed out.
SO much fun!
But, weekday morning. I had about an hour before I needed to head back for my first meeting. So glad I went out, so worth it, despite all the car stress.
