I almost went out the day before. Surfline showed a pretty good chart. It wasn’t until I peeked through the surfcam — wild choppy mess, a kite surfer gearing up - that I knew better. That’s never a good sign!
Dawn patrol the next morning was the right call!
Got up at 5am, geared up and toes touching water by 6:15am.
It was nice! Clear sky, sun rising over Nahant, just a little breeze and fun sized knee to thigh high waves coming through.
My shoulder is slightly angry at me, and I could feel the first paddle out. It was long and kind of exhausting. I’m going swimming regularly now, just to build up more paddle stamina. But still, that’s the hardest part, just getting out there.
It was so worth it! Caught a few nice ones with some decent long rides. Standing up, looking at the face of the wave and deciding how to ride it, I felt in control, that’s the most important thing.
Other than trimming and navigating around surfers paddling out, there was not much to do, not that I could do much more, but I felt I was lucky to catch the wave and ride it for a while.
Also: this was a first for me for wearing a hood in the water. We still had Winter water, it was cold! The hood made all the difference: ears staying warm kept me longer in the water.
Glorious morning! Can’t wait for more!
